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Oolong Tea - General

Big_Red_Robe_oolong.JPGOolong (traditional Chinese: 烏龍; simplified Chinese: 乌龙; pinyin: wūlóng) is a traditional Chinese tea (Camellia sinensis) somewhere between green and black in oxidation. It ranges from 10% to 70% oxidation.  It is among the most popular types of teas served in typical Chinese restaurants.

Oolong Tea is grown in the Fuijan province of China. Oolongs are semi-oxidised or "semi-green" teas which have flavours varying from light and delicate to very strong. Se Zhong is a thick strong Oolong with colour but there are more light flavoured Oolongs such as Huan Jin Qui (Yellow Golden Flower), Shu Xian (Water Fairy), Da Hong Pao (Great Red Robe), Loui Gui (Meat Flower) and Wuyi Yan (Bohea Rock).

In Chinese tea culture, semi-oxidized oolong teas are collectively grouped as qīngchá  Chinese: 清茶; literally "clear tea"). Oolong has a taste more akin to green tea than to black tea: it lacks the rosy, sweet aroma of black tea but it likewise does not have the stridently grassy vegetal notes that typify green tea. It is commonly brewed to be strong, with the bitterness leaving a sweet aftertaste. Several subvarieties of oolong, including those produced in the Wuyi Mountains of northern Fujian and in the central mountains of Taiwan, are among the most famous Chinese teas.

Horse_and_Oolong_leaves.JPGOolong tea leaves are processed in two different ways. Some teas are rolled into long curly leaves, while some are pressed into a ball-like form similar to gunpowder tea.  The former method of processing is the older of the two. 

The name oolong tea comes into the English language from the Chinese name (traditional Chinese: 烏龍茶), which is pronounced as O·-liông tê in the Min Nan spoken variant. The Chinese name means "black dragon tea". There are three widely accepted explanations on how this Chinese name came about.

According to the "tribute tea" theory, oolong tea was a direct descendant of Dragon-Phoenix Tea Cake tribute tea. Oolong tea replaced it when loose tea came into fashion. Since it was dark, long and curly, it was called the Black Dragon tea.

According to the "Wuyi" theory, oolong tea first existed in Wuyi Mountain. This is evidenced by Qing dynasty poems such as Wuyi Tea Song (Wuyi Chage) and Tea Tale (Chashuo). It was said that oolong tea was named after the part of Wuyi mountain where it was originally produced.

th_Big-Red-Robe.JPGAccording to the "Anxi" theory, oolong tea had its origin in the Anxi oolong tea plant. A man named Sulong, Wulong or Wuliang discovered it.

Another tale tells of a man named Wu Liang (later corrupted to Wu Long, or Oolong) who discovered oolong tea by accident when he was distracted by a deer after a hard day's tea-picking, and by the time he remembered about the tea it had already started to oxidize.

Oolong refers to a process. The process involves of Growing/ Picking/ Sun Drying/ Air Drying.  Next, the tea leaves are subjected to rack drying and then the rolling (in some cases). Rolling is what gives oolong its ball like form. Finally the tea is baked. This final step prevents the tea from oxidizing further. During this process, the weather plays a critical role to ensure pleasant tea.
The category of Oolong is a broad one. It includes both green teas (lightly oxidized) as well as red teas (heavily oxidized). In addition it includes lightly baked teas as well as heavily baked teas. A superior oolong tea is the perfect combination of level of oxidization and degree of baking.  

Aged oolong is the comfort food of Taiwanese tea culture.  It meets the psychological and physical needs of calm and stability in a current context of modernization and rapid paced life.  Today, Taiwan is facing some interesting changes.  Home to The Taipei 101 Tower, one of the world’s tallest building, and The Taiwan High Speed Rail, Taiwan is truly a nation on the move.  The people of Taiwan embrace the convenience of this new standard of living but are nostalgic for the traditions of simpler times.  Aged tea fulfills this need and provides a comforting familiar door to the old world.  Aged oolong doesn’t try to excite, but rather seeks to create a regenerative connection between the heart and the mind.

The world of tea recognizes Taiwanese oolong for its fresh floral and fruit flavor and its’ complexity.  This is a principal difference between fresh, seasonal and aged oolong.  With fresh oolong, fragrance is often a requisite, but with aged oolong, the fragrance has gently dissipated into a solid feeling of comfort and substance. So if you find yourself seeking cultural depth and substance in modern times, then aged oolong might be for you.

Photographs courtesy of Tom Antony (aka Salsero)